Inside LA - The Los Angeles Lowdown
A Day In Hollywood: Myth & Reality
In 1923 when the Hollywood Sign was erected, the town below was home to what was by then already the fifth biggest industry in the US, moving pictures. The sign was a billboard, not for the film industry (which was at the time only just becoming known as “Hollywood”), but for the housing tract in the hills under the thirteen enormous letters (that originally spelled HOLLYWOODLAND). The spectacular sign quickly became entwined with the aspirations, glamour and innovation of movie industry of course, and the physical place and the myth were forged together. So much so that, nearly a century later, despite the original plan being for it to stand for only a year, it remains a powerful symbol of the California Dream.
When we show guests the famous boulevard, it often seems to be an anti-climax for them: “isn’t this supposed to be the most glamorous place on earth?!” Of course, we all have high expectations of Hollywood, however, it’s also Hollywood, the myth, where rebel artists from around the world organized themselves, took risks, dared to dream and told stories that would change the hearts and minds of millions.
Today, Hollywood is a place where people live, work, go to school, catch the bus or train and shop at the local supermarket. It’s always been a living, breathing, working town – it’s not, and never has been, like Beverly Hills. The nature of Los Angeles is that its history is often less visible than many other cities. In LA, you need to open some doors, step off the beaten track and do a little homework. Then the legends that put the neighborhood on the map come alive. The myth meets the place all around, because every building has a story to tell, like every star on the Walk of Fame.
And the myth-making continues. In the 2016 movie LA LA LAND the music of Sebastian is heard by Mia as she walks past the You Are the Star mural just off Hollywood Boulevard, like the myth of Orpheus, entwining the power of music with love. We all want to be part of that myth also, and the great thing about Hollywood is that we can.
So, what do we recommend for your day in Hollywood? In order for you to properly experience this world-famous Los Angeles neighborhood and get a real feel for the myth, the history and the working town that it is.
1. GET AN UNDERSTANDING OF HOLLYWOOD
Start your day with the Real Hollywood Tour, so you can learn the background and history of the area. Unfortunately Hollywood doesn’t hit most people between the eyes, in the way that downtown Manhattan or the Eiffel Tower do. It is hard to reconcile the Hollywood of your dreams with the reality and a tour is hugely beneficial in bridging that gap. There are a ton of historical sites in the area, with some fascinating and illuminating stories to go with them, but if you don’t have a guide curating it for you most likely you’ll miss the vast majority of them and wonder what all the fuss is about. Don’t make that mistake! You can also get more recommendations for things to do from your guide.
After our two-hour walking tour you’ll be hungry and we have the perfect recommendation for lunch. Old-Style Hollywood glamor? Check. Great food? Check. History just seeping out of the walls? Check. For many years Musso & Frank Grill was the Hollywood eatery (Chaplin, Bogart, Cary Grant, Marilyn Monroe – they all had their own tables here) and it’s still a popular spot with Hollywood stars. Make like a Movie Star in your own booth. For another option 25 Degrees has some of the best burgers in town and is located inside the historic Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel (where the very first Oscar’s Ceremony was held, in 1929). If you can’t get a table there check out Mel’s Drive-In, it’s way above the level of most American Diners and its been here since 2001.
3. LIGHTS, CAMERA, ACTION!
After lunch continue your Hollywood experience with a studio tour. Paramount Studios is the only old time Hollywood movie studio still in the area and it’s well worth doing the tour to get an understanding of how the industry works. Remember, making movies isn’t actually glamorous, it’s an industrial process – involving building sets, creating costumes, feeding cast and crew, mounting cameras on cranes etc – and you’ll learn all about it here. Another option is the Hollywood Heritage Museum, one of L.A.’s best kept secrets, to get a glimpse of what the early, pioneering, movie-making years were like in the small farming town that was Hollywood in the early years of the twentieth century.
4. GO FULL-ON GLAMOR
Okay – now the learning’s done, time to have some fun! Yamashiro was a private members establishment, known as the 400 Club, for the elite Hollywood set in the 1920’s. In 1948 it became a restaurant and, sitting 250 feet above the boulevard, this recreated Japanese Palace has some of the best views of Hollywood you can find. If you want a more modern experience visit Mama Shelter or the Highlight Room at the Dream Hotel (we do on our Hollywood Speakeasy Bar Tour) – both of them have beautiful rooftop bars, offering stunning views all the way from the Hollywood Sign to downtown. They also have great food menus.
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– By Damien Blackshaw (Twitter)